Style Inspiration from Vintage Vogue

Putting together looks is much easier when you’ve got great examples from which to draw. I follow a couple photographers, blogs and Tumblrs that I look at most days, saving the photos that make a big impression on me.

Try to tell me that Humphrey Bogart doesn’t make an impression on you; I won’t believe you. (Photo by Ned Scott).

It’s always interesting (to me at least) to notice the subtle cycles in men’s style through the years. There is rarely anything “new” when it comes to men’s style, only variations in proportion. Notice the true 3-button stance, wider lapels (compared to today), and nice hats.

Some cool (in multiple senses of the word) Spring/Summer shoes.

These photos are from My Vintage Vogue, a website with scans from pages of (you guessed it) vintage Vogue magazines. The website focuses on scans of women’s fashion, organized by decade and model/movie star, but there is a page dedicated to men.

You can also see the scans on the My Vintage Vogue Flickr.

A huge thanks to the always-brilliant Swing Patrol blog for sharing their post about My Vintage Vogue. This is a great blog that posts dance clips and gems like this website very regularly.

Billy Reid Sale - Up to 75% Off

(Originally posted on Lindy Shopper. This sale is so good that I had to post it here too).

It’s about the time of year when designers begin to clear out their Spring/Summer inventory to make room for their Fall/Winter line, which means this is a great time to look for sales. These sales make it possible to get deals on clothing that might normally be out of reach.

Billy Reid is having a huge sale; up to 75% off.

Gentlemen, have you heard of Billy Reid? Billy Reid is a “Southern-bred luxury” brand whose designer has been referred to as the “Ralph Lauren of the South.” Named Best New Men’s Designer in America 2010 by GQ, Billy Reid mixes refined and classic style with a bit of Southern ruggedness. The brand is based in Florence, Alabama, but has stores in Dallas, Nashville, Houston, Charleston and New York. The clothing is trim, well-made and will last for years (physically and style-wise).

I first “discovered” Billy Reid for myself a couple years ago during a trip to Dallas to visit my parents. I was wandering through NorthPark mall while my little sister was doing some shopping and stumbled onto what looked like a well-decorated saloon. The walls were adorned with oil paintings, faded photos, gilded-frame mirrors, and assorted taxidermy. The clothing was impressive: hand-made suits and jackets, slim shirts in an impressive assortment of fabric, drawers filled with bow ties and -the best touch- bowls filled with vintage handkerchiefs and pocket squares . Unfortunately, it was all a bit out of my price range (except for a few of those pocket squares and bow ties).

This sale puts it all into reach (relatively… the best deals are in the jackets and suits). (The sale also includes the ladies Spring/Summer line. I like the dresses, but they’re mostly mid-thigh length, which don’t really work for dancing unless you like to show off your bloomers. If you do, then by all means…) Here are a few of my favorites.

"Charleston" Short Sleeved Shirt - White with Stripes - $83 from $165

It’s like a classic tennis sweater in short-sleeve shirt form.

Scout - Light Blue and White Linen - $88 from $175

The pleated front pockets and button-able rolled sleeves makes this very casual.

Pride - Aqua Linen - $42 from $165

A very sharp sport shirt.

Charleston - Purple and White Check - $78 from $155

Jonathon - Double Faced Khaki Linen - $169 from $675

The big patch pockets make this a very casual jacket.

Windbreaker - Black and White Stripe -$74 from $295

Martin - Grey Plaid - $298 from $595

It’s got a ticket pocket that you can’t really see in this photo.

Ruston - Patch Pocket Blue Pincord - $238 from $595

Jonathon - Blue Seersucker - $149 from $595

What’s up with this guy’s posture? Sweet jacket, though.

Savannah Bubble-toe Wingtip - $210 from $350

These are shoes that you could beat to hell and they’d still look great (maybe even better).

Indianola - Suede Chukka Boot - $99 from $395

Please remember that the fit (especially in some of the jacket models) is cut trim, so size accordingly. I really like that blue pincord jacket. Hmmm.

Happy Hunting.

Breathable Leather Shoes: Allen-Edmonds Strawfut

If this blog from Slevehead is true, then heritage American shoe brand Allen-Edmonds is bringing back a version of the Strawfut design back for Spring 2011.

According to the Sleevehead post, the Strawfut will be a “combination linen (or mesh) and leather” shoe. In the original shoe, the upper was partially constructed out of nylon mesh.

Information on this shoe is scarce and what can be found is only on blogs and men’s style forums. So, what’s the big deal? The big deal is that these could be my ideal Spring/Summer dress shoe and possibly my ideal dance shoe. The soles are constructed out of leather, which are hard wearing, repairable and will conform to shape of your foot. The upper is partially constructed out of a highly breathable nylon mesh, which is a godsend of a design feature in warm months (and especially on the dance floor). I would really appreciate the breathability, my feet get really hot when I dance.

This is a correspondent wingtip, also known as a spectator, where mesh has replaced the part of the upper that would normally be leather, linen, suede or canvas. I think these would look killer under a seersucker, cotton or linen suit, but I’d even wear them with rolled chinos or jeans (sans socks, of course).

This photo is from the blog of Allen-Edmonds' CEO.

The shoes in the image above were repaired by Allen-Edmonds for blogger, Fedora Lounge moderator and menswear designer, Matt Deckard.

Matt recounts the repair of his shoes in this post. It’s a neat story that highlights great customer service and the importance of leadership that has personal interest in their products. (According to the story, AE’s CEO frequented the forum where Matt first posted about these shoes, where were in dire need of repair at the time).

My friend, Bradley, has a pair of nylon mesh dress shoes that I’ve always found interesting and I’ve been looking for a pair ever since. If these are really coming out next Spring, count me in for multiple pairs in whatever colors they’re providing.

You see vintage pieces on eBaby, occasionally, but they’re never in my size. Actually, there’s a black pair of 8E’s on sale at the moment.

Well, if anybody ever wants to give me a pair to review, I wear an 8.5E.

This is an image of an 8E pair in black on sale on eBay.

Here’s a link to the most recent forum thread on the A-E Strawfut on the Fedora Lounge.

Jazz Age Lawn Party 2010 (first look)

It’s one of my favorite moments of the summer; The Sartorialist’s photos of the Govenors Island Jazz Age Lawn Party have started to come out.

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2010/07/jazz-age-dance-party-p1-governors.html

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2010/07/jazz-age-dance-party-p2-governors.html

This is a jazz age themed dance party on Govenors Island in New York. You may remember that I mentioned it earlier this summer.

Best of all, there are two dates for this party this summer. You can find more details on this thread on Yehoodi.

Behold the power of a well-fitted white dress shirt. I’m digging the panama hat and the cuffed seersucker shorts. The jury’s still out on that neckerchief. (ok, he pulls it off, but I don’t think I could). Lose the cigarette!

I would definitely ask her to dance. I love their hats.

Dang. That’s a beautiful, slightly rumpled, white, four-on-two double breasted linen suit. The pleated patch pockets make it slightly more casual. The collar pin, cane and cocked boater are just icing on the cake. I probably would have gone with a different colored pocket square, for a little pop of color (not that you can really tell in this monochrome shot). You should also notice that his jacket and shirt sleeves are tailored so that an inch or so of cuff is visible.

It’s Voon! Seriously, this guy is one of the best dressed dancers you will ever meet; always vintage or vintage inspired.

You can find more photos from this event here: http://newyork.metromix.com/events/essay_photo_gallery/the-2010-jazz-age/2073146/photo/2073165

It's Too Darn Hot

A couple friends have told me about the fun exchanges they’ve been attending but same complaint keeps coming up: some venues are ludicrously hot.

I remember the Wednesday before Frankie 95 in NYC in 2009. I was a little late because I had trouble finding the venue, but I was in a rush to get there. The Loose Marbles were playing, after all; who wouldn’t rush? Well, I finally got to the building and took the elevator up to the 7th floor or so. The doors slide open and BAM! -- I felt like I walked into a sauna (too bad it didn’t smell like one). The windows were fogged up and walls were slick with condensation. It only took one dance before I felt gross, but I ended up dancing for the rest of the night anyway. There wasn’t a single fan to cool us down. We just dealt with it and kept dancing.

Most dances aren’t that bad, but you can overheat anywhere if you dance hard enough. It’s best to come prepared.

Most of these ideas are fairly obvious, but this what I do:

• drink plenty of water (I always bring my own water bottle; it’s just more convenient)
• wear clothes made of light, breathable fabrics (like cotton and linen)
• dress in layers (because taking off your jacket and hat help a ton)
• I carry a small microfiber (super-absorbent) hand towel (mockingly referred to as my “Sham-pow” by a friend).
• take frequent breaks, if necessary
• I dance in front of fans if they’re available.
• I pack a large black fan. (you can laugh, but it works extremely well)
• You can cool off as much as you like, but sweating is inevitable so I ALWAYS bring a few extra shirts.

What do you do to beat the heat?

Dressing Up to Dance

It seems there’s been an increasing awareness of the connection between dressing and dancing, at least in the lindy hop community. (Balboa dancers are nearly ALWAYS well turned out). I think dancers have always seen the connection, but it’s gotten to such a high level.

The easiest way to see this increasing awareness is to look at dancers. Vintage dance troupe, The Killer Dillers, are always looking dapper. By the way, have you seen the Killer Diller fellas do their “Tribute to the Legendary Berry Brothers” routine? It’s acrobatic, wild and to top it all is performed in tails. They’re not only some of the most talented, in demand group of instructors in the world; they’ve also got great style. (and uh, have you SEEN Sharon, Jo and Evita? Um, yeah).

Photos are from the Killer Dillers Flickr photostream

I’ve had the pleasure of taking different workshops taught by all the members of The Killer Dillers. Sharon and Evita (with Nathan) at Southern Belle Swing Bash 2009. Sharon, Juan, Kevin and Jo all taught at Lindy Focus 8. Awe-inspiring, the lot of them.

It’s not just the rockstars, either. I see great style from dancers at every event I attend (and I try my hand at snazzy dressing whenever I get the chance).

So, what’s the connection between dancing and dressing? Besides the letter “D?”

Swing dance is very visual, both when performed as entertainment and when danced socially. Dancers performing or in competitions dress up to draw attention to themselves and to highlight their dancing. Social dancers dress up for similar reasons.

As fans of a dance that was born in the past, it’s only natural that we might be attracted to other aesthetic and artistic forms born in the same era. We usually go crazy for bands that can bring back the sounds of the time. It’s just as fascinating and just as immersive to wear the styles of that time.

This is not to say that you have to wear vintage clothing. The goal, whether wearing vintage or something more modern, is to wear clothing that is flattering: clothes that fit, complement your color and fit your style.

Besides, dance is a celebration; a party. Shouldn’t you dress up for a party?

More importantly (and this is something that goes beyond dance), clothing is a way we represent ourselves to others. What you wear sends a message to those around you. It is not the only message you send (nor should it be), but it is one (and often the first) that many notice. You are solely responsible for that message, so it is worth your attention.

So, get out there and put a little effort into your look. It will pay off.

If you’re going to be dancing, you might as well look good doing it.

p.s.

For swing and vintage inspirations, look to Swing Fashionista, founded by the beautiful and stylish Sharon Davis. There’s also (ok, shameless plug time) Lindy Shopper, which attempts to answer the perennial question “What should I wear to the dance tonight?” scouring the internet for beautiful clothes and fantastic deals.

Yet Another Reason I'd Love to Live in NYC

I love it when my interests in dapper dressing and lindy hop coincide.

I read this post from the Fine and Dandy Blog and found a link to Wit’s End in NYC. Wit’s End is "a monthly celebration of the Jazz Age" at Flute Bar, a former speakeasy. It’s a cocktail bar and live music/dance venue with a strict dress code (ruffians in casual attire will be denied admission). As the name and theme suggest, they encourage 20s, 30s and 40s era attire. How refreshing! Now, you might think that such a strict dress code would feel... well, restrictive, but I think that these constraints foster creativity and inspiration.

I’ll definitely have to check out this venue someday, as if I needed another excuse to visit New York again. Let’s not forget the Governor’s Island Jazz Age Dance Party every summer. There are some beautiful photos linked here. (Scroll midway down the page or search for instances of “Governor’s” ). Here’s one:

I’m pretty sure that’s Michael Arenella, leader of the band. Photo by The Sartorialist

I fell in love with New York City after spending a week dancing and exploring the city during the Frankie Manning’s 95th Birthday Celebration. There was a formal night; I wore a tuxedo and tied my own bow tie for the first time, beginning my moderately unhealthy obsession with vintage bow ties. (Thanks a lot, Victor)!

At Frankie 95 with Rita and Andy. They’ve both got great style (and taste in food).

Check it out! Now contributing to LindyShopper.com

This blog is still my forum to discuss dancing and dressing, but my buying recommendations will be located at http://lindyshopper.com/.

From the “about this blog” section:

“You’re never fully dressed for a swing dance without a smile and a fantastic outfit. Putting together such an ensemble may require some effort, much like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. I am already shopping on the internet for items to wear to swing dances and to gigs with the Atomic Rhythm All-Stars, so I don’t mind doing the legwork and sharing it with you. No, really – it’s my pleasure.

It should be noted that both shopping and Lindy Hop are addictive.”

I’ve been following Lindy Shopper since it started in April and I’ve been impressed with her recommendations & ability to find deals. She’s got great vintage style, considerable ebay/shopping/thrifting skills, and is not afraid to share her knowledge. (I know, I’ve observed those skills firsthand. She’s already taught me a lot). I’m really excited to be a regular contributor to this blog, so I hope you check it out.